Ballybunion — Old Course

Golf has been played at Ballybunion since 1893, when a small group of local enthusiasts laid out a rudimentary course on the spectacular sand dunes above the Atlantic coastline. The club's early years were modest, but the quality of the natural terrain was always evident. A pivotal moment came in 1937 when the renowned English architect Tom Simpson, who had already made his mark at courses across Europe, was commissioned to redesign the layout. Simpson recognised the extraordinary raw material at his disposal and worked to bring out the best of the dune landscape, creating a routing that remains largely intact today. For much of the twentieth century, Ballybunion was something of a hidden gem, cherished by Irish golfers but largely unknown internationally. That began to change in the 1970s and 1980s as travel to Ireland became easier and word of its brilliance spread through the golfing world. The arrival of Tom Watson, who visited in 1981 and expressed his admiration publicly, transformed the club's international profile almost overnight. His glowing praise in golf publications and interviews brought a surge of American visitors that reshaped the club's fortunes. Today the Old Course is consistently ranked among the top ten or fifteen courses in the world by every major golf publication.

The par-4 eleventh hole is widely considered one of the finest in links golf. The tee sits high on a ridge with sweeping views of the Atlantic, and the drive must carry over a deep swale to a fairway that bends left toward a green tucked beneath the sandhills. Any wayward shot risks disappearing into the thick rough or tumbling down toward the beach. The par-3 eighth is another iconic hole, playing from an elevated tee down to a green nestled among massive dunes with the ocean glittering in the background on clear days. The green is narrow and well-protected, and the wind swirling off the water makes club selection a genuine puzzle. The famous cemetery holes, the fourteenth and fifteenth, run along the edge of an ancient burial ground perched above the sea cliffs. The juxtaposition of golf and history in such a wild natural setting is unlike anything else in the game.

The ideal window for visiting Ballybunion runs from late April through September, when daylight hours are long and the weather, while never guaranteed in County Kerry, is at its most benign. June and July offer the best combination of settled conditions and extended evening light, with the sun setting well after nine o'clock. July and August are the busiest months, so booking tee times as far in advance as possible is essential. Spring visits in April and May can reward with lush course conditions and lighter crowds, while September often brings a pleasant mix of golden light, warm temperatures, and a calmer Atlantic. Winter golf is possible but the course can close after heavy rain, and the weather can be punishing.

Caddies are available and highly recommended at Ballybunion — a good local looper will save you strokes and enhance the experience enormously. The course plays as a buggy-free zone, so be prepared for a full walking round of approximately four to five hours. Soft spikes are required. The pro shop stocks a full range of Ballybunion-branded merchandise, and the clubhouse bar serves excellent food with views across the course. Ballybunion village has a small selection of accommodation options, but most visitors base themselves in Tralee or Listowel and drive the short distance to the course. Arrive early and allow time to explore the town and the beach below the course.